“Fashion has always been an authentic representation of the times. It is a mirror that speaks volumes about the wearer and the socio-economic and cultural factors that affect their lives and a glance at silhouette and detailing can almost accurately tell from what time in history it was made.” - Shyma Shetty (Designer, HUEMN)
When it comes to high fashion, there’s one trend that is taking India, and the world, by storm - the deconstructed silhouette. Chosen by the likes of Alexander Wang, Victoria Beckham, Monse and Tibi as their core concept for NYFW SS18, it’s something we have been seeing a lot of lately. But what does ‘Deconstructed’ really mean? Here’s the thing, there’s no one thing that defines the term. Frayed edges, exposed zippers, uneven hemlines, asymmetry… anything that makes the garment appear like it’s destroyed or coming undone - that is the core of what is essentially a deconstructed look. Relaxed, but strong with respect to the statement it’s making, this trend is growing on us. It is a rebellion against perfect tailoring, and India’s next-gen designers are front and centre of the march. Let’s take a look at some of our favourites:
This fashion label has been a game changer since its inception in 2013. Dhruv Kapoor’s creations have always been a statement in favour of uninhibited self-expression and individuality, and against norms of conventional aesthetics. The use of contrasting colours and prints in his looks highlights the deconstructed element in the garments.
When Teresa Laisom and Utsav Pradhan launched the label in 2009, it was all about modern details and keeping it minimal. Nine years and several capsule collections later, their garments focus on recontextualising classics by using modern innovations. The collections throw a fresh light on contrasts - old and new, mellow but rebellious and so on. Like, here, the classic tailored blazer gets a ‘misfit’ makeover. The deconstructed garment looks relaxed but elegant at the same time, doesn’t it?
“Paromita Banerjee’s initiation into the creative arts has been inspired by her passion for photography and essentially from ‘just looking around.’” The Indian wear designer debuted with Lakme Fashion Week India in 2009 and has been awarded several times for her “indi-cool” aesthetic and for being an eco-friendly label. While her garments essentially recreate drapes that define the visual beauty of regional textiles, she showcases them with a deconstructed twist. For instance, this Indian look styles a handwoven cotton saree with an off-beat shirt. A refreshingly brilliant way to wear one, isn’t it?
The founder and designer behind the name, Sohaya, is a psychology major. So, it’s only natural that her creations seem to have a mind of their own, and in a great, whimsical way. Her ensembles take inspiration from people and places, and are constructed to feel as comfortable as they are aesthetically unique. While she does both, Indian and western wear, this contemporary western look, in particular, piqued our interest - giant sleeves and the deconstructed roller-coaster hemline of the skirt. P.S. the whole look is made from cotton, post-consumer waste recycling.
Showcasing at Lakme Fashion Week India for the past 9 years, Huemn is a favourite amongst the industry’s who’s who. Actors, influencers, editors, you name it. The renowned label is known for wearable designs that incorporate controlled aesthetic elements to keep them fresh. Their Fall 17 and Spring 18 lines “have a strong interjection of deconstructed detail, which I think mirrors who we are as people today, enriched by a melting pot of world culture, screaming individualism and talking about opposing sensibilities at the same time.” The collections showcase designs that are “distressed yet sharply tailored, genderless, powerful in an irreverent way and refreshingly comfortable.”